Deep below the surface of the ocean, unseen waves roil and churn the water. These internal waves, traveling between water layers of different temperatures and densities, draw cold, nutrient-rich water ...

Many phase-averaged parametric nearshore wave models are based on the energy balance concept and use linear wave theory to calculate wave parameters (e.g., wave energy, wave height, wave setup). For a ...

A Skoltech researcher has developed a theoretical model of wave formation in straits and channels that accounts for nonlinear effects in the presence of a coastline. This research can improve wave ...

Europe is struggling more and more with extreme heat in the summer. While climate change is the main reason for this increase, what specific physical mechanisms cause a heat wave? One important driver ...

Modeling currents together with wind and waves provides more accurate predictions for weather forecasts and climate scientists. As hurricanes grow in power as the climate changes, accurately modeling ...

Until the end of the 20th century, scientists thought stories of massive waves rising up out of nowhere was just a myth sailors passed around, like sea monsters or mermaids. That changed in 1995 when ...

When giant waves —sometimes 30 meters tall, many times the height of the surrounding crests—suddenly rear up out of the ocean, they pose severe threats to even the largest craft. Unlike tsunamis, ...